Abarth 500 Fuse Box / K1S Dashcam Wiring

I recently fitted a K1S Dashcam (Koonlung K1S) to an Abarth 500, and wanted to have a tidy install with no wires showing if possible. To avoid having it plugged into the 12V lighter socket, I needed to find a suitable place to wire it into the dashboard fuse box. Although the fuse box is described in the manual, it doesn’t indicate which fuses are permanently live, and which are switched live. This information is not readily available on the interwebs either, so I figured it out with a meter and made some partial notes in the table below.

F127.5Right dipped headlamp power supply
F137.5Left dipped headlight and headlight alignment control unit power supply
F327.5ConstantFront, rear and luggage compartment roof lights
F3610Diagnosis socket, radio, climate control, EOBD
F375Brake light switch, instrument panel node
F3820Door central locking
F4315Windscreen/rear window washer pump
F4720ConstantDriver's side electric windows
F4820ConstantPassenger side electric window
F495SwitchedParking sensor, control backlighting, electric mirrors
F507.5Airbag node
F517.5SwitchedRadio switch, Blue&Me, climate control, brake lights, clutch
F535Instrument panel node

Obviously, there are a lot of fuses there which are “safety critical” such as the Airbag, Brake Lights etc. which are best avoided. Also, the fuse layout is probably the same on the standard Fiat 500, but you know… they might not be, so use this information at your own risk!

NOTE: I wrote this article for a 2015 model. On the 2017 model, I noticed that F32 and F12 are no longer populated (no fuses are fitted in these positions, and they don’t appear in the manual!)

The picture of the fuse box in the manual is upside down (for right hand drive models) so here’s a rotated version with the fuse ratings added in blue. The Switched (S) and Constant (C) supply fuses are (partially) labelled in red:

Abarth Fuse Box

To avoid cutting any wiring, I used one of these mini “add-a-circuit” widgets, which allow you make another connection to an existing fuse:


They need to be used with some care, because you could fit the original and new fuses in the wrong places, and fit it in the wrong orientation. As there were no instructions with it, I used the resistance range on my meter to double-check the wiring before fitting the fuses.

In the picture above/below, the left blade is the input side, which needs to go to the live supply in the fuse box. The right hand pin nearest the wire is the output, after the fuse. The original fuse goes in the lower two holes. The new fuse for your added circuit goes in the top two holes, and the output of that fuse is the red wire. Pretty self explanatory really:


When installed in one orientation (12V input to left blade as described above), the input goes through F1 to item A and the input goes through F2 to item B. If either fuse blows, the other item should still have power. However, when installed in the reverse orientation, note that the input will go through F1 to item A but will go through both F1 and F2 in series to item B. So you need to consider the orientation when installing it.

The wire projecting from the side of the “add-a-circuit”, and the fuses projecting sideways can make it impossible to fit in some positions and orientations (e.g. if they interfere with the side of the fuse box). This can limit your choices on which fuses it can be connected to.

Here’s a shot of it fitted in situ on the fuse box. In this case, it’s inserted into F49 (Parking Sensor, control backlighting, electric mirrors). Using a meter, I found that the left terminal in F49 was live with the fuse removed, hence the output wire faces right when installed:


Caution: whereas the left terminal of F49 was live, I found that it was the right terminal of F47 and F48 that was live, so it isn’t the same for every fuse.

For the ground connection, I used an eyelet crimp terminal under one of the two bolts which secures the bonnet release handle to the chassis. This is a very short distance from the fuse box, so easy to run a wire.

23 thoughts on “Abarth 500 Fuse Box / K1S Dashcam Wiring”

  1. Thank you for this. This is the most detailed install of this kind I have seen. I had an idea for how I wanted to install this, but wanted to make sure of how to do it.

  2. Thank you James.

    We all think of things like this after the fact most of the time. Like having your car broke into and then installing an alarm. Well someone scuffed my Abarth bumper, so now I am looking to get a good parking dash cam. This wiring was the one thing I was not looking forward to going through.

    Very detailed and informative. Thanks again.

    1. Thanks Kenny, I’m pleased you found it useful.
      Sorry to hear about your car, I can sympathise as both our cars were damaged last year. The dashcam proved to be useful when someone ran into the side of (T-boned) mine last year (now I’m on my second Abarth..)
      I guess you will also install a battery saver to prevent it discharging your car battery? There’s plenty of room under the dashboard to tuck one away.
      Best regards

  3. Thank you so much for this easy to follow installation guide.
    My dash cam was a birthday present in a January and I hadn’t a clue how to hardwire it and had quotes of £50 to £70 to fit it. I recently found your article and fitted it in about 20 minutes, easy peasy. Many thanks.

  4. Thank you James, I found your article invaluable as it addressed all the problems I encountered when trying to hard wire my dashcam in my 595 competizione. I’m looking forward to having another go at it armed with your advice!

  5. I went online with low expectations for finding anything worthwhile. Instead I found *exactly* what I needed here + the bonus of understanding that the hot side in the fuse box can be L or R and that there’s an up & down for the fuse tap widget. Bravo for making it clear!

  6. Everything you need to know all in one place, detailed, knowledgeable and excellently writen. I only wish I had seen this a few days ago 🙁

    Superb, well done!

  7. Holy thread resurrection – but a quick note to say thank you for the above – saved my bacon while fitting dashcam to my daughters Fiat 500 (Fifi)

    I used F51 (constant feed – but with Nextbase hardwire kit which has battery saver protection (turns off power to Dashcam if battery volts/Watts gets to a set level)

    I struggled with finding a ground location – ended up using the one of the nuts which holds the Bonnet release mechanism. (Just read your end paragraph). Wish I’d read that a day ago !! 🙂



  8. Hey, thank you so much for this. It absolutely gave me the info I needed to install my hardwired dash cam.

    But I do have a question, which side is live for the F32 fuse? I don’t have a meter to check it with. Thanks so much!

    1. Hi there, pleased it helped!
      Looking at my diagram, it looks like I didn’t label F32… now it was quite a while ago, so I’ll need to pull the fuse on my car and check with a meter to answer the question!
      Anyway, I should have chance to check that for you at some point this weekend, bear with me…

      1. OK, so I’ve had a look at this and my current Abarth (2017 595 Turismo) is different… both F32 and F12 are unpopulated (no fuses fitted in those holders).
        I checked with a meter and both fuse holders appear to be disconnected – no 12V present with ignition on/off.
        Also, the manual no longer lists those fuses (only 10 of the 14 fuses are listed in the table on P100 of the manual, and it doesn’t list a function for fuse F32 or F12).
        So it looks like they don’t use those fuses on newer models?
        Out of interest, which year is yours?
        This article was written for my old 2015 car, and the 2017 model is obviously different…

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