Renault Modus: Flashing Headlight Fault or Indicator Fault

Our Modus recently developed an alarming fault, where the dipped headlights or full beam flash on briefly when using the indicator stalk, or going over a bump in the road… not good! It could be pretty dangerous if someone thinks you’re flashing to let them out at a junction. This is the second time this has happened to us, so I thought I’d explain the cause and how I fixed it.

Basically, the problem was caused by a wire snapping off where it enters a connector inside the indicator stalk housing. Every time you move the indicator stalk, it flexes the wiring and after a few years it breaks due to fatigue on the wire. Here’s the offending wire, which you can see has broken free of the connector:

modus_stalk_wiring1

These are insulation displacement connectors, where the wire is pushed down between two blades. These pierce the insulation and make contact with the wire. Obviously, they also act as a nice point of stress to encourage the cable to fracture as it is flexed.

This is low-voltage logic wiring, and doesn’t carry much current judging by those tiny wires. It probably connects to some kind of digital controller and  uses MOSFETs to switch the lights.

Anyway, this is the second time this has happened on the same car, with about 2 years between occurrences. The first time, it was the right-most pin (as shown above). That previous repair is still good, but this time the wire next to it has failed.

Update: in June 2015 the right indicator stopped working. Again, this was due to a broken wire (the third one from the right this time). This was fixed in exactly the same way, as described below. Since I first posted this in April 2014, that’s just over a year gone by since the last repair.

You might find that several wires have broken simultaneously on your Modus (as Moss mentions in the comments below). The good news is that all of them are wired “straight through” so that pin 1 is connected to pin 1, pin 2-2, pin 3-3 etc. for all ten wires, so you should be able to reconstruct the correct order!

To begin with, I disconnected the battery as a precaution before carefully disassembling the housing round the steering column. Pop out the lower light grey plastic panel around the steering column (pull the top section towards yourself) to make it easier to access. There are two Torx T20 screws beneath the steering wheel housing, and the rest is snap fittings. The lower section of the housing can be lifted free (you may need to move the steering height adjustment lever to remove it).

2016-10-06_modus_steering_cowl_screws

Here’s a view of the steering height adjust release lever on the 2006 Modus. I had to release this lever before I could lift the housing off:

2016-10-06_modus_steering_height_adjust

The upper section of the steering housing doesn’t need to be fully removed, but can be lifted out of the way. The indicator stalk module unclips and slides out of the steering column (that part at least is  a surprisingly nice piece of design).

To fix the broken wire, I soldered in a short length (about an inch) of new cable to extend the broken wire so it will be under less stress, and insulated with heat-shrink tubing:

modus_stalk_wiring_repair

If you are considering doing this job, it’s probably worth adding that you need access to a soldering iron and some heat-shrink tubing (the wires are quite small, and would be hard to join by crimping I think).

Note that the distal end of the wire (which will go into the connector) is the original wire, to ensure it is the proper gauge for the connector. I gently picked out the remains of the broken cable from the connector with a pin, and pushed in a fresh piece. I then tested all pins for continuity, and all was good.

Again, if you are planning on doing this, be aware that the connector is fairly small and it’s fiddly to get the wires in (these connectors are not designed to be repairable – just intended for a single use / factory fit). It is possible though, if you have patience 🙂

Here’s a shot of the front side of the repaired connector. Note the black heat-shrink tubing on the repaired wires:

2015-06-08_modus_stalk_connector_front

Here’s a close up of the rear of the repaired connector, showing the wires pushed in between the blades of the IDC connector:

2015-06-08_modus_stalk_connector_rear

This is what it looks like when re-installed inside the indicator stalk module. Note that the central part (with the PCB and connector) is mobile, and moves when the stalk is used.

Modus Indicator Stalk Wiring

Here’s another shot of the internals of the indicator stalk assembly and wiring:

2015-06-08_modus_stalk_internals

Finally, here are some images showing the indicator and headlamp stalk units completely removed, showing the wiring loom between them:

2015-06-08_modus_stalk_assembly

And here’s a close-up image showing the connector on the headlamp stalk unit fitted:

2015-06-08_modus_stalk_connector_fitted

Having reassembled it, I did a complete test of all the lights and it all works fine again. Well, until next time at least!

Further investigation of the connectors…

So far the “zero cost” fix above has worked for me… but I was curious about the type of connector used, and whether the whole assembly could be replaced with new parts. Looking at the photo above, I noticed the connector has “JSTDF” printed on it, which made me suspect this is a JST connector. After a bit of searching on their web-site, I found the KR connector and CK connector, which look similar:

jst_kr_connector

These are 2mm pitch IDC connectors, and the 10 pin version would be 22mm long. I haven’t actually checked if this is compatible, as our Modus is working fine and I’m reluctant to take it apart again just to measure the pitch/size of the connector!

Anyway, the JST datasheet says that the housings are “Compatible with the PH crimp style connector”  which is interesting, because crimp connectors and tools are cheap and easy to use, so it might be possible to make a new 10 way cable using these. Again, I’ve not checked if these are compatible but RS have the PH connectors and even have ready made cable assemblies. Here are some direct links to the components on the RS web-site:

  • JST PHR Series 10 way housing (RS 8201462)
  • JSR Crimp contacts (RS 8201456)
  • JST Cable assembly 300mm length (RS 8201412)

If these connectors are compatible, this would be another possible fix to consider!

76 thoughts on “Renault Modus: Flashing Headlight Fault or Indicator Fault”

  1. Hello. This is really useful. My 08 plate has just started doing this. I will try this at the weekend and hope it works. Thank you for this post

    1. Hi Charlotte, pleased it helped – good luck fixing yours!
      As you’re trying at the weekend, here’s another tip: I seem to remember that I had to release the steering height adjustment lever to get the lower cover off. After removing the Torx screws, it pops off by hand (don’t need to lever it), just work your way around.
      Regards, James.

  2. This must be a common fault as my modus is showing exactly the same symptoms! Thanks for the informative and well written fix ! Now all I have to do is find a Torx screw driver.

  3. This is brilliant, thanks so much for posting this.

    I’m having the same problem and it had me totally confused. Lights coming on and going off randomly and not being able to switch on my wipers unless I switched the lights off first.

    Definitely sounds like I have wire issues issues and I’ll be checking this out tomorrow.

  4. James’s fix will work in the majority of cases. I removed the offending stalk assembly from my Modus and found indeed the wires are very fragile however, Of the 8 wires 6 of mine were broken and I had no clue which came from which connector due to them all being the same colour. I tried a number of combinations but all to no avail alas. In the end I bit the bullet and purchased a new stalk. This has worked very well of course but!!!! I didn’t realise that the wiring from here is part of a load of controls including the exterior temperature sensor. I had bought a new sensor at considerable cost but not got round to replacing it… now I have no need as the display works perfectly. Another word of caution : Last year my Modus failed it’s mot on headlights being too dim. replacement xenon bulbs had no effect and I was advised to convert the lights to conventional halogen which I did at great expense… I now find I needn’t have done this as I have tested the xenon units on the car and voila they are ok ! Thus far this niggling fault has cost well over £1000 and I could have done the job for nothing as James explains but for my lack of electrical expertise. The replacement stalk was £114 inclusive and I wish perhaps I had used this fix earlier. Great source of inf James and I hope anyone else who has this problem finds it as useful as I have.

    1. Thanks Moss, especially for the additional information which might help others in the same position I’m sure!
      From memory, I think the connector is just wired straight through (pin 1 to 1, 2-2, 3-3 and so forth). So, if both ends are unplugged and you have a multi-meter to test continuity, it should be possible to reconstruct the order of the wires I think.
      If I have the wiring apart again, I’ll test this to absolutely sure, and update the post with the wiring order of the pins.
      Best regards
      James

      UPDATE: since writing this comment, I’ve tested it again and can confirm that they are wired straight through as described above (the post has also been updated above).

      1. Hi James, is that positive that they wire from 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 , etc etc all the way to 10 !!!.

        Thank you, regards, Alan.

        1. Yes, at one time I tested every single wire one by one with a DMM on continuity (beep!) mode and they were wired straight through (1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 etc all the way to 10!). Providing you have at least one wire still intact (to establish which end of the connector is “pin 1” on both connectors), all the other broken wires just need to be wired through sequentially.

  5. Hi,

    Firstly thanks for this guide. I have been having trouble with intermittent indication (when turning right) and now switching from dipped to full beam headlights.

    Either I can switch to full beam and then not back again or I can’t switch to full beam at all.

    I removed the steering cowling and traced the wiring when showed all ten wires securely placed. I then removed the indicator stalk, opened it and again all ten wires are securely attached.

    Could you possibly offer any advice before I fork out for a new indicator stalk?

    Thanks again
    Phill

    1. Hi Phil
      Excuse the delay in reply, I’ve just returned from holiday!
      It could be a fault with the switches themselves, but this seems unlikely as it is affecting multiple different switches (one might fail, but for several to be working intermittently would be surprising). I’m still leaning towards suspecting the wiring. Although all ten wires appear to be attached, it could be an internal break in one of the wires (i.e. the outer insulation being flexible may still be intact, but the wires inside broken, and just their frayed ends in intermittent contact). If you have access to a multimeter, you could carefully remove the two plugs at either end (lever the plugs out with fingernails or similar, try not to pull on the delicate little wires) then test each individual wire for continuity using the meter on it’s resistance/continuity range. This would eliminate the wiring as the cause.
      Funnily enough, as I was driving home from work today, I saw a Vauxhall with randomly flashing headlights and then the hazards started flashing. The driver looked completely oblivious to this, so I wonder if they have a similar wiring issue 😉
      Regards
      James

    2. Phil, I have the same headlight problem, switching between dipped and main and back very erratic. I pulled the stalk outwards and it worked better for a bit so I am suspecting the contacts in the switch itself. Plan to dismantle it soon and see what’s going on. I will check the wires issue too whilst I am there.

      Steve

      P.S. Thanks to James for all the wiring info.

  6. I have renault modus 1.4 16V, recently I found both the headlight bulbs blown, i have changed them both, checked the fuses under the bonnet, changed the relays round but still the lights will not come on, I have searched online and can not find a wiring diagram or a diagram of the fuse box and relays can anybody help please, regards Tony.

    1. I don’t have a wiring diagram, but (as you have already checked lamps, fuses, relays and eliminated those) this fault could also be explained by broken wire(s) in the steering wheel / indicator stalk assembly as described and pictured above (it would definitely be worth having a look in the steering column for broken wires). Of course, it could also be the wiring loom or connectors under the bonnet and dash. Good luck, and hope you are able to get it sorted.

  7. I had an issue with indicator lights flashing erratically. This was fixed by removing the back lights and carefully cleaning with a dremel wire brush the melted!!! connector. Problem solved.

    Today I noticed that the head lights wouldn’t turn off after switching of the engine and getting out of the car.I’m afraid I need to take a dive under the steering column.

    I also sometimes hear a gear grinding sound when turning the wheel coming from the steering column. Anyone knows what that might be?

  8. Thanks James for this informative info.

    I set off the other morning at 06.00 only to find I had no main beam!!! Anyway after following the info here I removed the light stalk unit and wiring plug to the right of the column then opened the stalk unit to remove the other plug.

    One of the wires had snapped off so I just took out the piece between the connector and just pushed a fresh bit in, bit slack of me actually as should have soldered an ‘extra’ bit in!!

    Anyway I put it back together and all worked ok until I turned lights off and then back on and now it is worse than before as lights flicker on and off etc etc!!

    I have taken it apart again and am going to buy some replacement wiring of the same gauge and replace every one of the 10 wires as they are obviously very brittle!

    Car is a 2006 so surprised the wires lasted this long on a renault!!

    I think the car is fantastic though and has only done 48,000 miles from new on a 1.5dci!

    Thanks again for the info.

    1. Good luck! Those IDC connectors aren’t great either, they are designed for “one time only” insertion of the wires, and there’s a risk of poor connection between the wire and the connector pins when replaced. Hope it works out for you. If all else fails, you may be able to find the stalk assembly/wirirng on eBay also.
      Our Modus is still going strong (also 2006 model, but well over 80k miles now)

  9. If it is low voltage wiring then do you think it would be possible to re-wire those IDC connectors using something like bell-wire and putting a tiny blob of solder on each connector??

    1. Hi Nigel

      Yes, I think it may be possible to solder to the IDC connector, although I haven’t tried personally. If you did that, you would need to take care to keep solder away from the “socket side” of the connector (i.e. soldering between the two blades or towards the rear blade is probably OK, but would avoid soldering “in front of” the first blade, where the pin enters the connector).

      Without trying, I’m not 100% sure if the plastic of the connector would tolerate the heat of soldering (but I think it probably would, as the PCB connector is soldered down and it appears to be the same plastic, and also I assume/hope it would be some kind of heat resistant plastic for fire safety reasons).

      In my case, I’ve managed to push fit three individual wires to the connector so far, and achieved a good contact with the blades (and these repairs have stood the test of time so far – i.e. none of my previous repairs have failed yet). Not having the proper tool, I’ve used small allen-keys or cross-head screwdrivers (i.e. something with a fairly flat tip to evenly push down on the wire, rather than a sharp blade) to push the wire between the blades (I pushed the wire from the top on either side of each blade, and close to them, but not inserting the screwdriver between the blades – which I thought might bend them apart).

      As push-fitting them has worked successfully for me so far, I would recommend that method first over soldering. If that fails, I think soldering is another option worth considering and would probably work.

      Best regards
      James

  10. Been away for a couple of weeks with work and decided to call into a local auto electricians today and showed him the offending wiring! He said he could not repair it and did not have any wiring I could buy for me to re-wire it!! BUT he did have an indicator stalk complete with wiring and he took it apart and ‘gave’ me the wiring, very kind of him unfortunately I tried this one and have the same issues, took a look and another wire had broken on this one!! They must be made of poor quality wire or just my bad luck!!

    I will go to renault in next day or so and tell them i just want to buy the wiring NOT the stalk as well and see what happens!!!

    1. Good luck with the dealer! Suspect they will only supply the complete unit, but it’s worth a try. Otherwise, maybe a car breaker / scrapyard would have one? I think the Clio MK3 may use the same unit as the Modus. The whole unit (stalk and wiring) goes for about £80 new and second hand ones are about £50 on eBay. Either way, good luck.

  11. Dealer complete and utter waste of time, as you suspected!!! I gave them a bit of a blast that the cable was not available as it was so easy to remove it should be on the parts list, fell on deaf ears but made me feel better!!

    I ended up at Maplins and bought some telecoms wire and I have re-wired both IPC connectors, continuity is good on each cable so will be putting back together over the weekend, will keep you posted!

    If it fails I will buy a new one as don’t want to buy second hand as will probably have the same problems as current one!

    1. Sorry you had no joy at the dealers… fingers crossed that your DIY repair works (it will be really satisfying if it does!)
      Incidentally I’ve updated the article above with some more pictures and another possible idea for a fix.
      Hope all goes well at the weekend!

  12. Thanks for the added info James if my attempted fix fails I will look at the suggestions on the rs site.

    Regards

  13. OK so now losing the will to live with this! Rewired the ipc connectors each wire has 100% continuity yet when I plug it in same/worse happens in fact now with the indicator stalk removed and the plugs disconnected the headlights are permanently on when I turn the car on!!!! How can that happen as the switch to operate them is inside the house???????

    1. Hi Nigel,
      Sorry to hear you’re still having trouble with it, must be frustrating!
      These are logic signals, so if the wire is disconnected or the switch removed it could actually turn lights on (which is why the lights are on when the switch is in the house!)
      There are a couple of possible explanations remaining: it could be an intermittent connection. For example, when you test the wires with a meter outside the car, they may be OK, but when the wire is flexed or put under tension it could be breaking the circuit. It could also be a break inside the wire itself somewhere. Failing that, you would have to suspect the indicator stalk assembly itself.
      Regards
      James

  14. I did think I might have triggered something strange!

    So I decided to check the original lead and connectors and re attached the other lead that had broken. Put it back on and now I am back to exactly how I was originally with everything working except main beam!! I am not messing anymore! I might just buy some nice big round spot lights like the rally cars from the 80’s and wire in an extra dash switch should give the old modus a little more ‘road presence ‘!

    Thanks for your comments and I still might try the rs connectors although loathed to touch it again until something else packs in!!

    Rgds

    Nige

  15. OK I have had to bite the bullet and I have ordered a new indicator stalk unit from a Renault dealer that sells on Ebay!

    I just realised that my car is due for MOT end of this month and as the good old days of getting a ‘hooky’ MOT are long gone I have got to try and fix it!

    Fingers crossed this new unit does the job!!

    1. If it is only the left side not working, logically it must be either the Bulb, connector or wiring. The fuse would affect both left & right light, so probably OK. With a volt meter you could check for 12V at the connector. The bulb can be visually inspected or tested with a meter on the resistance range.
      The headlight bulbs are VERY difficult to access on the Modus (but not impossible!)

  16. I can confirm, that renault Clio 3 year 2006 has exactly the same switch and the same cable issue.
    Thank You for repair guide.

    1. Thanks, that’s useful information – I thought the parts looked the same in the eBay listings, but good to have it confirmed.
      Regards
      James

  17. HI JAMES

    IS THERE A SPECIAL WAY TO OPEN THE INDICATOR CONTROL (RENAULT MODUS 2006) IT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE YOUR PHOTOS. IT SEEMS TO HAVE SPRING AT THE BOTOM AND I’M NOT SUR THAT IF I OPEN IT THE SPRING WOULD NOT FLY OFF OR I WOULD BE ABLE THE GE THEM BACK IN THE SAME SPOT

    THANX
    GEORGIE

    1. Hi Georgie
      As I remember, the plastic case is held together by plastic clips all the way around, and you need to gently prise them apart all the way around (being careful not to snap them), as you ease the casing apart. When I opened it, there were no loose springs to fly off, so as long as you are gentle with it and take your time – you should be OK.
      When you put it back together, you will need to make sure the rotating part of the stalk is properly lined up with the housing.
      Good luck, and I hope it all goes well for you!
      James

  18. I have a 2004 Modus, I cannot get the steering wheel cowling off, I have removed the 2 screws underneath but it will not budge. There is a third screw deeper near the height adjustment lever. Do I need to remove this?

      1. I’ve just had a look, and our 2006 Modus only has the two Torx screws. So that you can compare with yours, I’ve added a couple of photographs to the article above. Hope this helps!

  19. Thanks, I have removed those two screws but there still seems to be something stopping me removing the bottom or top cowling. Maybe I`m not being forceful enough. I have also released the steering height lever but no luck.

    1. From memory, I think that I was able to separate it by pulling at the front left face of it where the two halves join, to the left of the steering wheel. My memory may be faulty, but start trying to open at the part nearest the wheel (top section of housing first). I think it was possible just using my hands (at least, I don’t remember having to use tools), but it takes quite a bit of force, and there’s always the fear of breaking one of the plastic clips, so you’re right to be cautious. Once you partly separate it, I seem to remember that the rest zips open more easily.
      Now I could take ours apart again… but I’m wary of disturbing it as all is working well currently!

  20. Can anyone confirm if the indicator stalk issue causes very dim HID headlights ? It passed an MOT but in my opinion buts not safe to drive at night. Put new bulbs in which made no difference. Next question is does anyone know if the self leveling units in the HID/projector type headlights have a separate fuse ? And they don’t seem to adjust anymore when we start it up. Whereas but used to always do that ?
    Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Tim
      I don’t know the answer for sure, but there’s a post from Moss above (March 26, 2015) which mentions an issue with dim headlights being resolved by indicator stalk assembly replacement.
      James

  21. hi james i have a renault modus 2008 whwere the head lights will not turn off is it the same problem as every one else or something different do you know were the second fuse box is ? Thanks neil

    1. Hi Neil
      I think it is quite likely to be the same issue. If the headlights were permanently off, I would suspect bulb, fuse. However, since yours won’t turn off, it could be the wires in the steering column / indicator stalk assembly as described here. From memory, one fuse box is in the glove compartment, and another under the bonnet on the nearside. However, I would take a bet on it being the same issue described on this page.
      Let me know if you have any other questions. We no longer have our Modus, but I remember it well 😉
      James

  22. Hi, I have a bit of a strange one, a 2006 Clio Mk3, the dip/main beam was intermittent and i purchased a new stalk. After fitting it the left indicator will not work. As this is a new stalk with a new loom is there any chance that the female receptacle on the wiper stalk may be faulty? Apart from this I have not disturbed any wiring between the stalks and the BCM. Any ideas? Thanks

    1. Hi Michael
      The possible causes could include; incompatible stalk (e.g. different model), wiring loom fault (although new: could eliminate this by testing continuity of each individual wire with a multimeter), faulty switch (although new!), the connector mounted on the PCB I think is unlikely to be damaged (unless a pin is broken off – it would take a lot of force to damage the connection between the pins and PCB).
      As the wiring in the steering column has been disturbed, that’s the most likely fault location, but also worth checking the bulb itself and fuses. Electrical connectors can also become unreliable with age, as the contacts tarnish and oxidise.
      My first checks would be to double-check model number/compatibility of the new stalk assembly, test continuity of the cable loom with a meter, and possibly disassemble and inspect the stalk controls.
      Is it brand new, or one recovered from a breaker? Either way, I wouldn’t assume the wiring is good, and would test.
      Cheers
      James

  23. Hi, having just purchased a Modus, it seems I have the same issue, lights coming on on their own etc and the display still shining bright even when car is switched off and locked. I’m hoping this is related to the above wiring issues.

    Can’t get to look until the weekend but fingers crossed I can get it sorted.

    1. Hi, hope you manage to get it sorted (and hope the weather is OK this weekend!)
      When you say the display is still shining bright, do you mean the backlit display / digital speedo etc? If all those are still lit up, it may well be a different problem. However, issues with the lights (headlights, indicators, side lights) staying on could well be the wiring fault described here.

      1. Hi and thanks for replying, yes it’s the backlit display of the speedo. Not the actual speed or revs just the backlit display. Will try and add a picture to show you. Back in 10mins.

  24. Ok, so backlit display was down to the stereo being on but not on if that makes sense. Another Renault issue is the stereo in cold weather goes off, although technically it’s still on, had to remove stereo and disconnect power, replace power and now all ok and backlit display now off.

    So back to the issue of indicators making the lights flash which I will look at on the weekend.

  25. Looked today and no wires have come loose or snapped anywhere – so next thing I guess is multi meter and test each wire. Thing is how will I know where the break is if I find a faulty wire ? Or is it a case of replace the wire ?

    1. Hi Perry
      To test the wires you would use a multimeter on the resistance range (easier if you have one with a buzzer) to test each wire by touching the pins at either end of the cable. If the probes are too big, you could use a pin. If there is a break, it would most likely be near the end where it joins the connector, as this is where the wire is under stress.
      Mine had an “invisible” break in one wire (the conductors had snapped, but the plastic sleeve was intact), so it’s possible it might not be visible. The only way to be absolutely sure is an electrical test.
      Hope this helps, and best of luck with it!
      Kind regards
      James

  26. Hi i had the same problem on my gf’s car. I was certain it was one of the wires had broke after reading your blog.
    After i tested all those wires for continuity, all the wires were fine but the problem was still there!

    **PROBLEM SOLVED**
    I found the problem after further investigation, in the light/indicator stalk there is a circuit board with roller/tram wheel type switches.
    Over time the tram wheels had left lines of build up over the metal contacts so the wheels were only making intermittent contact with the circuit board!
    I carefully took the whole unit apart and with a tiny rolled up piece of 600g sand paper i gently sanded the lines off the metal circuit board and also cleaned the metal wheels with it too to reveal fresh metal.
    After putting it back together the lights and indictors work perfectly!

    My Mrs will be happy :0)

    If i could upload an image you can get a better idea of what i did.

    1. P.s also in case anyone is wondering. The fix was for a 2006 modus which had the problem of lights not coming on or intermittently working or just staying on and not going off.

  27. Hi,
    I was surfing on the internet to find out what cable and connector reanault was using and I found your guide. Unfortunatly one day to late. The day before yesterday my right direction didnot work properly. So i took a look and I founfd that to wires were damaged. I repaired it by removing the defect parts of the cable from the connector and put the shorter cables in the connector again. I tried it ans the direction switch was working again. I also had a long time the problem that the up/down switch on the right wiper switch didnot function anymore. It started tfirst that is could only use them if the direction-swicth was pushed up. Later this didnot function anymore. So if anyone has a problem with up/down switch on the right wiper switch it has to do with the first cable on the connector of the direction-swicth. Why this is I don’t know because I have no wiring diagram.
    I don’t know how long it lasts before I get the problem again, but then I know how I have to do it. I think I might order some connectors to be perared.
    Thank you for your discription.
    Kind regards
    Pierre

    1. Hi Pierre
      Thanks for sharing the information above, I’m sure it could be useful for others reading this page.
      Kind regards
      James

  28. Awesome, this just helped me fix mine, the two tiny springs and the little plastic thing they attach had come loose actually found one of the springs in the footwell, can’t believe my luck. All fixed brilliant.

  29. This electrical fault can be repaired or replaced!!! A life CANNOT. SO, RENAULT, of course I can have it repaired at my own expense. No price is too high to save a life, but what if the indicators & lights fail AGAIN AT a critical moment??!!! As they have been known to do !!!. SO, why should this MAJOR FAULT be tolerated?. Whose head rolls WHEN there is a disaster ? RENAULT ?.

    1. Hi James
      I doubt Renault will see your complaint posted here on my personal Blog. You may want to write to their customer services directly to vent your frustrations!
      Kind regards
      James

  30. Hi James

    Thank you for taking the time to write this guide. Its spot on. I have an issue with my clio mk3 2008 that is partly sorted thanks to your guide. But the wires are fairly fragile and keep snapping, so I purchased the connections you mentioned and will give them a go and report back.

    I have also linked various similar issues on the renault forums to this guide, it will save people a lot of time and money. Thanks once again.

    Steve

    1. Hi Steve
      No worries, glad you found it useful. Good luck and please do let us know how you get on with the repair.
      James

  31. the wires are a bit too short by an inch. Can confirm jst connection fits and this method will work just fine provided you have longer wires. They are a bit too stretched for my liking.

  32. I’d like to thank you for posting this. We followed your instructions and found three broken wires in the connector. Shortened them a little bit and everything works great. Thank you!

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